Lest we forget, a good burger is a thing of beauty. Oneness in the patty fat-to-meat ratio and sauces knitting all into a 'perfect burger'. It's satisfying, messy manifestation of all things umami: beef, melted cheese and tomatoes, all ready to be augmented by additions such as bacon, relish, slaw... there are a few things culinary that can be relied on to do their job as effectively. Much less in a tidy package. But hey, it's personal, a burger does the job of lifting the spirits for me, it might not for you, but hold on to your horses as I reveal one of the newest burger kids on the 'Ann Siang Road' block. Get your paper towels ready.
The WOLF x Bird Bird collaboration is as name stakes, a hush-hush get together between burger fanatic Chef Sarah Lin (of Carvers & Co. and Wolf Burger) and dude-food maestro Bjorn Shen (of Bird Bird). If you're familiar with Wolf Burger's (located in Pasar Bella Suntec City) menu, you'll spot one or two familiar variants here. albeit souped up with premium toppings. For starters, the Wolf Wagyu ($23) has got itself a wicked port cheese game going. And then there's the wagyu patty which provides an intense hit of umami unlike any other, the quality meat given outrageous depth and savour from time on the grill.
Virtually flawless, the Double Truffle Mushroom ($20) stole the show for me. Delivering a tsunami of flavors from truffled porcini mushrooms to blue cheese and signature wolf patty. I wouldn't go as much as to say it's excessive, but when the juices start to dribble down your fingers as you get grubby with the slobbery burger, the 'meat slut' in you sees a Mr Hyde moment and there's no way you're sharing this one with the amateurs. I'm sorry. not sorry.
For something a little more standard yet no less gratifying, order the Big Bad Wolf ($16) which comes escorted with bacon weave. Resistance is futile. There's also the Wolf's Bird Burger ($16) for Christmas Carollers (a term I save for those who expound pleasantries about the festive season, just a little too much) - turkey with turkey crackling (say whut?) topped with cranberry jam. I have yet to try this, but I wonder how does this hold in comparison to Park Bench Deli's Hot Butter Ball sammich.
WOLF x Bird Bird runs a long list of sides which fits seamlessly into the debauchery of burger consumption. For starters, get the Pulled Pork Fries ($8), animal style fries topped with cola pulled pork, springs onions and crispy shallots. Sriracha mayo drives the heat index ten notches higher and you start to dismiss the jarring sweetness of the unctuous pork strands. Another must-order are the Doritos-Crusted Bacon-wrapped mozzarella ($8), yes you read that right the first time! When you take that crucial first bite, molten cheese ejaculates, scaling your mouth and hands. Sure, bacon wrapped cheese are usually messy affairs, but this takes the biscuit.
Scooting over to Bjorn's items, you know its gotta be kooky. In both chicken and beef 'wurger' options (essentially waffles to replace the buns), Bjorn sprinkles a quintessential amount of 'Asian magic' with toppings such as sweet Thai chili slaw and a red curry mayo which acrid fumes waft through the room just as soon as it clears the top of the staircase.
Bjorn's Beef "Wurger" ($20)
Verdict: YAWN. Crispy noodle magic has been done, dusted and put in its grave. The textures presented by limp waffle put beside wolf patty, slaw and coconut sour cream, unexciting. That being said, the red curry mayo slaw that cascades over the meat, has the potential to be a whack side in a smokehouse.
Bjorn's Fried Chicken "Wurger" ($16)
Verdict: This one fares a lot better than the previous version though I remain a bit quizzical about how an ominous large rectangle of waffle base qualifies it as anything reminiscent of a burger. Doritos crusted fried chicken benefits from squirts of coconut sour cream, the sweet Thai chili slaw raking in one juicy monster messy that you want to get lost in. Unfortunately, for the unmovable rug of waffle which remained just a little too snug in the takeaway container.
In all honesty, I can't say I'm sold on this reincarnations. The execution a bit shoddy for dignified consumption. I prefer a burger I can pick up with my fingers, one that I can pull closely and whisper sweet nothings to. I'm old fashioned like that and grossly change-up versions offer a major trip-up for me. After road-testing this lot, I must say, the Double Truffle Mushroom still leaves me punch drunk. That and pints of hofbrau munchen, maybe.
For what's its worth, burgers are here to stay, and for this cosy little Ann Siang pop-up joint, queues will form, defying the health phases and food fashion. Be there soon and maybe some handsome two-handed mix-blood will sweep you off your feet.
WOLF x Bird Bird
18 Ann Siang Road
Operating Hours:
Mon - Sat: 5pm - 11pm (Drinks)
6pm - 10pm (Food)
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