There's barely anything left to coincidence on the plates as presented by Chef Shinkai that night at Lewin Terrace. His well-flourished career that took him through the kitchens of 3 Michelin star restaurant L'Osier in Tokyo to the beloved 1 Michelin star Beni on local grounds erecting some high expectations at the white-linen lined tables. Sure, we do know that the Chef is well-versed in the unique fusion of Japanese-French cuisine, but a quick glimpse at the summer menu revealed baffling misplaced words such as 'laksa' and 'lemongrass' - would these prove to be feign attempts at pushing the envelope, or will they actuate as pure ingenuity? I was curious to find out.
賞味 [夏] SHO-MI [SUMMER]
AMERA JAPANESE TOMATO/BURRATA CHEESE/ LEMONGRASS /BASIL アメーラ ブラッターチーズ バジルアイスクリーム
KADAYIF ANGEL PRAWN / KADAYIF / LAKSA / ARTICHOKE 天使の海老 カダイフ巻き ラクサ風味のソース
SUZUKI STEAMED JAPANESE SEABASS / FENNEL / GINGER / MILK 日本産スズキのスチーム ジンジャーソース ミルクフォーム
CHALLANS DUCK CHALLANS DUCK ROTI / TRUFFLE SAUCE / POTATO / MANGO / SHICHIMI シャランダックロースト スパイスミックス ポテト
(SUPPLEMENT) 3 KINDS CHEESE PLATE +＄10 ３種のチーズプレート +$10
SUMMER DESSERT CHERRY / WHITE CHOCOLATE / ALMOND / FRESH CHEESE FRESH チェリー ホワイトチョコレート チーズのアイスクリーム
JAPANESE TEA OR COFFEE OR TEA 日本茶、珈琲、紅茶
AVAILABLE FOR LUNCH AND DINNER $128 WINE PAIRING $120 (6 GLASSES)
The postmodern approach to modernism starts off with the Lobster Jelly in Omotenashi Corn Soup. This is the moment where you bite your tongue and throw all doubts and inhibitions out of the window onto the grassy slopes. It's sweet and lush, caressing the back of the tongue with so much affection that it would take more than just the accompanying bread rolls and soft butter to lift the flavours from your ambushed senses. Butter, let's talk about that now shall we. The yuzu jelly center had a slight tartness, a sweep from middle to the sides and a devious smear onto toasty bread rolls results in a impalpable experience of melting creamy-yellow goodness.
Fresh and vivid is the Amera, a work of art with drops of raspberry and tomato emulsion paving the way for a pristine dome of burrata cheese encasing a hidden surprise of an Amera tomato. The balancing act ensues with the green tomato and basil sorbet, lemongrass and olive powder acting the role of reliable background singers in providing depth of flavour.
Innovation and finesse shows no signs of residing in the next couple of dishes. Turkish inspired, Angel Prawn in Kadayif features a gently arched New Caledonian Angel prawn enrobed in finely shredded filo pastry. What astounds me about this dish is Chef Shinkai's dedication to incorporate local nuances, take the laksa sauce for example that was redolent with pineapple, somewhat resembling more of an Assam sauce than the usual coconut cream variant.
Equally impressive is the Japanese Seabass, it's crisp skinned presentation splayed out over broccoli puree, cubes of fennel cooked in orange juice for a slight tartness and a ginger milk sauce. It's tame and very articulate in its flavours, till you spot the robustness of fish sauce, cognac and white wine aimed at beefing up its dismissible formula.
The one dish however that best showcases Chef Shinkai's prowess is is the Challans Duck Course. The duck is supernaturally tender, lean yet possessing a slight game to its profile. Unfurling a certain wilful nature in light of its summer expression, the port jus is bursting with spices, cardamon and coriander, nutmeg and ginger. The sticky dates making perfect sense. My only grouse, the sweet mango tempura which contributes nothing to the winning combination.
Sophistication and pleasure meet in the dessert course - American cherries, cherry ice cream, aerated sponge, dots of luxurious white chocolate cream amidst inception of hazelnut cremeux and shards of buttery tuile. This dish will have you transfixed with its straightforward but harvest-driven stance.
Lewin Terrace's menu has recently entered into its Autumn stages and you can view the new menu here
Also, you'll be delighted to know that Wednesdays are Ladies' Night and Corkage-free Wednesdays too! Ladies will get a to enjoy a special deal of a special 4-course menu (comprising 2 appetisers, 1 main course and a dessert) for just $88++. If you're thinking to go big, complimentary corkage is granted throughout the day on Wednesday. Yes, I know I'll be back.
Lewin Terrace
21 Lewin Terrace
Fort Canning Park
S(179290)
w: www.lewinterrace.com.sg
t: 6333 9905
Operating Hours:
Tues - Sun: 12 - 3pm. 6 30 - 11pm
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