It's old school extravaganza at Morton's of Chicago, the moment you walk through those doors its drab carpeted floors, heavy red velvet curtain partitions and conservative hard-backed chairs. Honestly, it can be interpreted two ways by different schools of thought - stale and conservative or nostalgic, old-school steakhouse. This one is going to make many people, very cross, but to be honest, I, unfortunately was not too taken by the dated decor. The tired staff, trained to the same mundane standards of cruise ship waiters, adding to the sense of 'tradition'.
But we're here for the new spring menu, and the endless deluge of Pebble Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (a wine label produced for Morton's in collaboration with California's renowned Monterey Peninsula wine estate Scheid Family Vineyards), so we set aside the dire first impressions and get working on the starters.
We begin with the Burrata, Grilled Asparagus and Baby Heirloom Tomato Salad ($32++), the tangy seasonal greens forming the perfect bed of flavour to the brilliantly creamy burrata cheese. It's generous serving size and top notch quality rallying quick nods around the table.
Nueske's Bacon Steak ($20++) sets the standards. Apple-smoked Pork belly (12oz) grilled on hard charcoal, the same way as you would a steak, is coated with a sweet peach-bourbon glaze for that extra indulgent touch. It's extremely effective and works wonders in presenting the humble bacon as a luxury item.
Non red-meat lovers, you're in luck as Morton's works miracles with their seafood. Their new menu item of Seared Cod with Romesco Sauce ($78++) is a big generous dish of roasted red peppers with leafy greens and heirloom tomatoes aloft. The real star of the show being the seared cod that flakes apart with a genial sigh, each glistening flap dissolving delicately on the tongue. The dish simultaneously feels worth the heady price tags while retaining a wistful air of mama's simple cooking.
The most delicious thing on the menu tonight was the American Wagyu Royal Ribeye Cap Steak ($112++), a highly coveted cut that demonstrates both the desired tender marbled qualities of Japanese Wagyu and yet a pronounced beefiness in flavour. Straddling the tight rope of realms, the product is one that speaks to the souls of the true beef connoisseurs. Don't mind me, I was revelling in that moment of bliss, oblivious to the nudging of my fellow diner, asking me to pass the fries.
There is also the American Wagyu Filet Mignon with Fire Roasted Poblano Butter ($108++) . We all know the Filet Mignon to be one of the most tender cuts of the Tenderloin, however it's potentials were undermined by a lack of attention to seasoning and crust development; a flaw vaguely masked with poblano butter, which unfamiliar Mexican spices left many of my fellow diners perturbed.
To end, there was a case of a chocolate cake that looked like something that Bruce Bogtrotter (in Matilda) could have tackled in a jiffy. But I steered clear for fear of diabetes. I say you're better leaving your calories for the Chocolate Mortini.
Morton's of Chicago
Mandarin Oriental Singapore
5 Raffles Avenue
Reservations: CHOPE
Operating Hours:
Mon - Sat: 5 30 - 11pm
Sun: 12 - 9pm
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