Bread and Hearth: Bread and Butter letters
Labels:
boulangerie. bakery,
Bread,
chinatown singapore,
croissant,
keong saik,
media event,
outram,
patisserie,
tart
·
Butter. there was butter dredged all over the walls, it enveloped me, luring me into its warm embrace. If you cringe at the smell of this yellow villain, then avoid Bread and Hearth by all means. However, my love-hate relationship with it (referring strictly to my days in the kitchen spent tackling a 25kg block of butter with a really blunt knife) draws me one step closer.
Bread and Hearth is the newest artisanal bakery to open amongst the playground of F&B riches in the Ann Siang/ Keong Saik neighborhood. Dedicated to using the best quality ingredients to set it apart from its competitors, I was keen to taste a difference.
And I did.
Working within the constantly cool realms of the fastidiously packed kitchen, staff laminate the croissant doughs from scratch. Plowing the natural levain dough, hiding sheets of French butter within, through the dough-break, book-turn after book-turn till the cross-section reveals some mind-blowing layers of alternating dough and butter. Once proofed, these babies enter the mouth of the blazing hot German oven and the water content in the butter blisters, swelling causing the pastry to puff up. There you have it, crisp, flaky pastry, the hinterland of every butter worshipper.
Here at Bread and Hearth, they take their coffee seriously. One sip of my cappuccino and my coffee nerd consensus attained a quizzical standstill, unable to establish a familiarity with the blend. The owner explains that the coffee beans used for their coffee have been 'blended' in house, a fixed ratio of arabica and robusta beans in order to balance out the tannins, acidity and nuttiness of it. The end result, a smooth, medium bodied coffee which leans ever so slightly to the more nutty side of life. Adding to the pageantry of the fancy coffee art is the subtle fairy dusting of nutmeg powder over the top that works miracles with its rich woody spice.
With a spread of goodies to conquer, we nibble our way around the table. For me, the real strengths are in the Croissant, the Raisin roll and Pain au Chocolat; shedding some light on the dark and depressing state of such boulangerie items in Singapore. Retaining a crisp crust even after the relentless shootings, the butter taste was profound, deliciously rich and salty. The chocolate batons from cocoa barry spilling its hot fudge like melty innards within those flaky layers. Frankly, though, the Matcha Orange soft roll and White Chocolate bun are not particularly tempting with a strange doughy texture.
Part and parcel of any boulangerie spread are tarts. Here at Bread and Hearth, the tart shells are made from scratch, another applaud worthy moment for the hard working folks here. That aside, the result is this strange cookie like crust that screams it's tormenting experience under the hands of an overcompulsive dough maker. The Lemon Meringue Tart, your usual suspect has a lovely bright citrusy note, let down only by the biscuit like dense tart base; whilst the Salted Caramel Tart shows up sweet with sticky caramel, jazzed up with a wee bit of sea salt (could use a lot more in there to warrant the use of the descriptive word 'salty') and nuanced by the simple addition of roasted hazelnuts speckled over the top. With a bit of fine-tuning, this combination has a lot of potential to be the unique selling point of the cafe.
Like every new kid on the block, Bread and Hearth uncovers a mixture of hits and misses throughout its menu. However, with a concise business plan and niche products on offer, this place is set to conquer the hearts and stomachs of croissant lovers with a couple of tweaks.
For now, I vouch for that Pain au Chocolat. Why not give it a go?
Fundamentally-flawed dined as a guest of Bread and Hearth. However, opinions are strictly her own. Thank you Mapwerkz for the invite.
Bread and Hearth
18 Keong Saik Road
Singapore 089215
T: 6534 7800
Website: www.breadandhearth.com
Potato Head Folk: Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious
Labels:
american,
burgers,
dinner,
hipster,
keong saik,
no reservations,
outram,
tanjong pagar
·
Potato Head Folks needs no introduction. A huge cloud of media banter rising from the dust weeks before it's opening here in Singapore. Indonesian brand Potato Head, known for their unorthodox operations in Bali has quite a following. With that, the launch of their local outpost builds a flutter of anticipation in me, especially so since one of the gentrifying factors of their multi storey complex alone Keong Saik features a burger joint.
Potato Head Folks is an interesting premise - a Bohemian flower child space with butterfly and bird motifs, inspiration from Melbourne-bourne artist David Bromley. His obsession with little prepubescent boys puts me on edge, bordering near paedophilia disorders. But that aside, it's rebellious and showy interior paves the way for some great food.
Featuring a menu from Three Buns with its kitchen planted on the ground floor, Potato Head Folks pull out all the stops with a devoted menu of hearty burgers and naughty sides accompanied by a mix of devilish drinks. Roping in Chef Adam Penney, the previous Head Chef from London's Patty and Bun , our expectations have now exceeded the roof.
From the list of "Jerk Cocktails", we sampled the Mexican Mule ($15), a refreshing mix of cimarron blanco tequila with lime and ginger beer, the good dose of tequila, a sturdy work horse in the background as the conjugal bliss of tangy lime and candied ginger provided that 'ka-pow' effect similar to a donkey's sidekick. Paying homage to their Indonesian roots is the Albens Fine English Cider ($14), brewed in the Alben cider factory and bottled at Molly Malones in Jakarta, this is as honest as it gets. Clear pale golden, this cold filtered cider is clean and spritzy with sweet notes of green apples. Perfect after the walk in the sweltering heat.
I ditch the fancier versions in favor of the basic burger, Baby Huey ($20), prime 150g beef patty, stacked with cheese, lettuce, notorious T.O.M sauce, pickles and spiced mayo. A simple convening of well executed items that cumulates in a smackdown when first bitten into. Special mentions going out to the artisanal breads that are all baked in house ( i did notice that my friend's Burning Man burger had a different rendition with a more wholemeal like bun, so again, hats off to the kitchen for taking the extra effort). The beef patty renders a burst of juices from it's larger ground size and level of doneness. This for me, was my answer to the replacement for Mary's on local grounds...
Potato Head Folks do feature some other more interesting spaces on the upper decks should you want to linger. The third floor is home to a more intimate, reservations only bar where future plans for small plates, vintage spirit tastings are still in the works. Climb another flight of stairs and you'll find yourself in an oasis of fragrant herbs and exotic flora, a modern rooftop bar exuding tropical vibes and dishing up tiki cocktails created by Dre Masso.
As for me, my passion is solely focused on that burger joint. I will be back to try that Honky-Tonk soon!
Three Buns by Potato Head Folks
36 Keong Saik Road
Singapore 089143
Tel: +65 6327 1939 (no reservations policy)
Lucha Loco: Ready, Get Set, EAT!!!
Labels:
bar,
beer,
drinks,
duxton hill,
mexican,
quesadilla,
tacos,
tanjong pagar,
tequila
·
It's always a riot at Lucha Loco, groups congregating under colored flags and hanging bulbs in the garden patio chowing down on hearty Mexican fare. The atmosphere is laid-back, yet dripping with contemporary LA vibes all at once. With the kitchen headed by Executive Chef Mario Malvaez in collaboration with Chef Jason Jones, co-founder of Mamasita in Melbourne; food here is touted to be the real deal. Judging from the deliveries of wildly hued tacos careening past our noses, out of the kitchens and on to hungry diners; it didn't take much convincing to see that Lucha Loco must be doing something right.
This post maybe severely belated, reviewing my last visit on the 9th April in conjunction with a special "Taco Eating Challenge" that was held on the same day. With my partner competing in the 10 mins, 'stuff yourself silly with tacos challenge' in tow, I set out to explore the menu on my own.
Taco De Chorizo con Red ($10) was a chorizo and braised beef taco. The braised beef carrying a heady aroma of spice, it's melty mouth-feel mixing beautifully with the more robust flavored sausage for a devilish combination.
The Taco de Pescado ($11) starts off with a beautifully fried snapper, the red onion salsa and spicy orange chipotle mayonnaise building it up into a crescendo. Wonderfully balance in flavor, this attractive package works it magic amongst the rowdy diners.
My staple order of Chicken Quesadilla with Serrano Chili ($16) arrives at the table, a racy sight of feisty colors, the freshly made salsa on the side providing acidity that cuts through some of the heat derived from the inclusion of serrano chili in the mix. The chicken is cooked to perfection, still retaining that bit of moisture that ties the spicy, creamy concoction together under those pressed shells. All in all, one of the better quesadillas I've had in Singapore thus far.
The event was a smash, gregarious hosting from the MC and great energetic vibes from the contestants and their supporters. The winner might have consumed 18 tacos in 10mins (if my memory doesn't fail me), and still had a visible 6 pec after the whole affair. I assure you, life isn't fair.
That being said, Lucha Loco was definitely a great find, an unhurried space that is the perfect backdrop for creative Mexican dining and a very persuasive choice of libations to wash down the sublime food. Perfect for after work dinner and drinks with the colleagues. Just be mindful of the tequila if the boss is around.
Lucha Loco
15 Duxton Hill
Tanjong Pagar
P: 6226 3938
Website: http://www.luchaloco.com/
Roadhouse: Integration
Labels:
american,
beer,
buffalo wings,
burgers,
chickenwings,
dempsey,
drinks,
hidden finds
·
Integrating myself back into Singapore society is in all honesty, a painfully dreadful task.
What better way to start then on more familiar grounds. Let's ease into this transition. Starting off at a burger joint. Baby steps. My chest heaves in the humidity of the air, the heat slapping me in the face. I say a silent prayer... break it to me gently please.
The Roadhouse is a modern American diner shining the spotlight on burger artistry. It comes across as simply a restaurant with good food and earnest intent that just happens to be in one of the coolest spaces in the city. Inside, the feeling is almost "ironic suburban". with expansive family tables primed with chili flake shakers and good ole whimsical school diner lights hanging overhead. I settled in comfortably, only slightly bothered by the unfamiliar singlish jargon floating in the air. It will take time...
Kicking off the welcome back party were the Spicy Garlic Parmesan Wings (5 for $14), before you jump to conclusions, these are 5 single joints not 5 entire wings including both drumlets and wings. Pretty pricey in my opinion, these prove to be just mediocre, the BBQ sauce a little too acidic and one dimensional in flavor profile.
The burgers come in variety of ingredient pairings; the menu proving to be a tough one to navigate if you're as fickle minded a person as I am. I went forth with the Bacon Marinated ($26), soft buns baked in house, beef patty sizzled on the josper grill; gorgonzola, streaky bacon, caramelized onions, garlic mayonnaise and sauteed mushrooms form the other layers. Similar to a brioche sans the unnecessary sweetness and sometimes overwhelming richness, the cloud like buns are a perfect canvas for this juicy mess. I just wish there was more gorgonzola on there... Verdict: this burger tickled my fancy, ticked off all the boxes that qualifies it as a good burger but still it's not the best I've tried. I continue my search for greener pastures.
His, High on Shrooms ($26) featuring forest mushrooms, truffle oil, rocket, monterey jack and garlic mayonnaise. Definitely an overkill in the truffle oil department, but the name says it, so no whining there.
Roadhouse
13 Dempsey Road
#01-07
Website: www.roadhouse.com.sg
Burnt Ends: Can I have a little bit of smoke with everything?
Labels:
australia,
chinatown singapore,
contemporary,
dinner,
hidden finds,
overrated,
restaurants,
special occasion
·
To say that this was a long awaited experience is certainly an understatement. After a futile visit the first time around during the hectic lunch hour (before reservations were accepted); we were glad to find out that Burnt Ends had started to accept lunch reservations. We jumped the gun quickly and made the call just in time for our monthly celebrations.
Entering the domains of the restaurant, you are greeted by a bustle of action, deliberate movements all around the tight space of the open kitchen that spans the length of the establishment. A circus act of agile chefs dancing around the heightened flames of the four-ton, double-cavity wood burning brick kiln. The elephant in the room. One who's ominous presence dictates the flavors of the entire menu.
The restaurant's color palette is kept light and natural. Shades of greys and cream are complemented by occasional pops of colors from the bespoke varnished burnt rain-tree wood counter. Loh Lik Peng evidently blowing a breathe of magic into the place, stylising it with a touch of industrial-chic.
We kick off the much anticipated meal with Smoked Quail Eggs ($6) , bouncy balls reminiscent of tea-smoked eggs with a thick veil of smokiness. Flecked with large crystals of sea salt with an irresistible burst of fatty sunshine yolks within. These were an absolute showstopper of a starter.
The Smoked beef and horseradish ($18) was a refined dish comprising of beef tartare once again imprinted with the slightess hint of smoke topped with a magical shower of fresh horseradish done at the pass by Chef David Pynt himself .
The next dish takes the seasonal humble leek and turns it into something novel and delicious with the inclusion of some other unsuspecting ingredients. Leeks, hazelnut and browned butter ($16), turned out to be my favourite dish of the evening. Unassuming in terms of looks, the smoked leeks peeled out from its charred outer leaves were elevated by the generous dose of buerre noisette, parsley, capers and toasted hazelnuts.
One of Mr. Pynt's favourite dishes on the menu is the Kingfish, apple and seaweed ($21); a slab of kingfish collar with sweet flesh perfumed with umami flavors of its soy and mirin marinade under its carbon treated exterior. Not too flattering to look at to be honest but it does speak volumes for the type of cuisine Burnt Ends is proud to produce.
To top our experience off, we dived in straight for the kill. The Burnt Ends Sanger ($20); pulled pork shoulder, cole slaw, chipotle aioli, brioche bun. What more can I say? The fork tender pork, subjected to a gruelling 10-hour of cooking ritual before being smothered in an angry sluice of tangy chipotle aioli in a airy sesame seed bun. The mixture of textures, freshness of the coleslaw and punchy flavors created a sweet dance of sensations on the palate. It was at most good, but didn't provide the 'smack-down' I was hoping for with its terribly good looks.
Burnt Ends have received unprecedented media attention since its opening and I'm sure its novel concept has a part to play, especially amongst a constant gang-bang of restaurants with a contemporary fusion themed menu. With dishes highlighting David Pynt's Australian 'laid-back' nature, each of them simple but given a little snap, crackle and pop; most of them end up being more satisfying than its meek description on the menu. A place for special occasions and special occasions ONLY. (Unless you've got loads of moolahs to spare; then in that case, knock yourselves out!)
Burnt Ends
20 Teck Lim Road
+65-62243933
Website: www.burntends.com.sg
Tonkichi: my steadfast love
When I crave a good tonkatsu (once in a bluemoon), I only turn to one place.
My rock, my steadfast love, that manages to fill the entirety of all my cravings, nooks and crannies inclusive; that is Tonkichi. And if that isn't specific enough, I implode you please patronise the Takashimaya brunch for the most outstanding meal.
Deliciously golden brown, rich and salaciously juicy, the fried rosu katsu is the perfect thickness with the panko crumb crust adhering with a gentle magnetic touch to the flesh. With free flow of cabbage and rice thrown into the mix, one can fill up on the slight excessive tangle of greens with the addictive Japanese wafu-style salad dressing which helps to keep everything in check and cuts through the fat.
Question: Where would you turn to for the best tonkatsu?
Tonkichi (Takashimaya)
391 Orchard Road #04-24
Takashimaya Shopping Centre
Tower A, Ngee Ann City
Singapore 238872
Spathe Public House: #Savour2014 throwbacks
Labels:
american,
burgers,
dinner,
european,
mohammed sultan,
river valley,
special occasion,
waffles
·
#savour2014 was pretty much the most frequently used hashtag in the month of March. A relentless stream of posts on my instagram feed that I treated like a monkey on my back. Mainly because of the fact that I couldn't be there. A gourmet food festival featuring the likes of Michelin starred chefs and other illustrious restaurants in Singapore all convening in one single convivial location. I was sore.
Hence, when I chanced upon Savour recap of festival favourites, I jumped aboard eagerly. For 2 weeks, a specially created SAVOUR inspired menu had been crafted at a few bespoke establishments around the island for those meaning to "keep the savour buzz going". I was one of the fortunate few who was able to squeeze it into her visiting schedule.
SPATHE PUBLIC HOUSE was my choice, drawn to its innovative 5 course menu and copious amounts of good reviews to its savour offerings.
At first glance, my breathe was stolen by the sight of a fleet of low sofas and mismatched chairs. The brick walls jazzed up by a fresh coat of paint in bold colors and brave artistic prints. Self professed to be serving "European" fare, the menu featured a few playful injections of local influences that steered it towards the "fusion" side of cuisine, a potential dangerous casting as it is rare for a restaurant to come swirling out of the chaos; when most of the time, this choice of direction coughs up half-formed and unconvincing places.
Our first two courses came out swiftly, Charcoal Smoke Tomato Soup with crispy St Maure goat cheese, extra virgin olive oil & Sous Vide Spanish Octopus Salad with baby spinach, orange, garlic soil, honey, wholegrain mustard vinaigrette. With the former dish, its all about the details in the fabric; the slight char on the tomatoes, the crispy bits of ooey gooey goats cheese. It was a fabulous tomato soup, one that spoke maturity in terms of balance and seasoning. The Octopus salad was stellar as well, the sweet tart tension of the honey wholegrain mustard vinaigrette pulling the dish together; the orange segments introducing fresher and brighter flavor; the octopus, however possessed a rather incomprehensible texture, almost like chicken but underscored with a sense of rich, sea-slicked spice. Intriguing.
The menu steers off-course towards a more whimsical approach with the next offering, Belgian Waffles & Fried Chicken with Mornay Sauce. A fluffy lattice of conjugal bliss of flour, milk, sugar and salt creates the hinterland of your food fantasy, the cracks and crevices forming pockets for the nappage of that sweet sweet cheese sauce to rest in. The crisp fried chicken perfumed with spices and paprika cumulating in a smack down when the triad convenes in one mouthful.
Sambal, triple cheese, bacon, crispy chicken Truffle Melt. You know I love my burgers but this unfortunately didn't quite float my boat with its inharmonious flight of flavors, the piquancy of the sambal failing to sing in unison with the overdose of truffle oil.
Desserts arrived in a true Aussie fashion (the long wait now understandable), a bold brick of Sticky Toffee Pudding with Hokey Pokey Ice Cream. Laced with a rim of butterscotch sauce, my preoccupation with digging into the dessert was not one shared by my partner. That's alright, more for me. More dates could have been employed in the pudding, the excess of sultanas thrown into the mix, quite a turn-off for me; the hokey pokey ice cream studded with crunchy bits of honeycomb toffee was a perfect match to the warm pudding. A beguiling slice of dessert that I greedily polished off.
Spathe is a perfect backdrop for creative fine dining menu with a languish chilled vibe. Coupled with earnest, civilized and unhurried service, it isn't difficult to see myself back here for another meal in the near future.
SPATHE PUBLIC HOUSE
8 Mohamed Sultan Road
#01-01
Singapore 238958
+65 67351035
Website: http://www.spathepublichouse.com
Portico: Don't mess with the New Kid on the Block
Labels:
american,
beer,
circle line,
coffee,
dinner,
family friendly,
hidden finds,
labrador park,
wines
·
Singapore has no shortage of new restaurants and every visit back is a tepid attempt at playing catch-up with the newest, trendiest openings. Portico makes a soft entry with its secluded, austere hideaway of a location along Alexandra Road, a stones' throw away from the bustling hub of the Gilman Barracks.
The brainchild of restaurateurs, Alicia Lin and Sean Lai (owners of Pasarbella's Cicely Kitchen and Le Patio respectively); it is evident that their creative individualism has evolved into a hybrid of sorts that brings 'home-dining' to a new level. The kitchen is run by Executive Chef Leandros Stagogiannis, his impossible tangle of a hair helmet teaming full of innovative menu items. With the Fat Duck and Saint Pierre under his belt of accolades, I expected no less than an exceptional meal.
The space glows with warm invitation to passer-bys, except there weren't any, given it's 'off the beaten road' location. Still, word of mouth works wonders as publicity here and the dining room is a riot on a weekday night.
The meal unfolds, or unravels on modest table tops. Chili Scented Blue Mussels and french fries ($14/$27). As much as the dish looked a pretty picture, we had an argument with several muted mussels conveniently stuffed at the bottom of the dish. The thin film of sauce could use a fresh insurgence of acidity as the spicy cream concoction lacked complexity. A trip back to the kitchen coaxed the remainder of the mussels into submission, their flesh rubbery from the excess heat treatment.
Far more prominent is the Roasted Bone Marrow, shallots, parsley, garlic and crispy bread ($20/$30); the aroma of the dish, part animal fats and part herbs going directly from your nostrils to your brain. We devour this quickly with the expertly charred slices of crisp bread crackers.
And if you're like me, a no-nonsense raging carnivore, order the Red Wine Braised Wagyu beef cheek and bourguignon sauce ($27). Here, details elevate the honest braised beef; and its not just another brown sticky braise: the crisp snap of nashi pear, the smoky sweetness of the pearl onions, all sitting on that velvety smooth pomme puree. The Wagyu beef cheek is rendered to a heart aching tenderness, and I can't get it out of my mind. Wrestling with my gluttony, I did the unthinkable and shared a bit of the love with my neighbors (something that I came to regret almost immediately)
Chef Leandros Stagogiannis being of English background with Greek descent reflects on his heritage in this dish of Pork Belly Kebab with paprika fries, crusty bread and tsatziki ($13/$24). Understated cooking at its best.
Like many new restaurants, Portico isn't strong across the board. Service can be rushed and not exactly polished; but despite the risks, Portico is fun and lively enough that I can imagine dropping in once a month or so for a braised beef cheek reunion, or perhaps give that lemon tart with onion ice cream a crack.
Portico
991B Alexandra Road
#01-10
Tel: 6276 7337
Website: https://www.facebook.com/portico.sg
Black Swan: Warm Welcome
Touching down after my flight back from Sydney, I was famished. The journey was a irritable few hours of cramped up spaces and furiously coughing neighbors; i earnestly needed to get my spirits lifted.
First on the agenda, Black Swan, to get that stomach filled.
Having been here before, I decided to explore the menu a little with the intention of uncovering some weak lines in the kitchen's repertoire. Cruel, I know.
We ordered the Half dozen escargots ($21) and it turned out to be an instance where luxury of the ingredients backfire on the simplistic charm of the original dish. Escargots with garlic butter and parsley is an old school delight that brings me back to my hay days spent feeling pish-posh over a hot plate of sizzling escargots at Jacks Place. This new rendition pushes the boundaries by incorporating not one but two more belly busting ingredients, bone marrow and Parmesan into the mix. The result, a massive overkill of fat overload that drowned out the skimpy little morsel of earthiness. Disappointing.
Our main redeemed the establishments streamlined perfection of American cuisine with it’s Stockyard Australian Wagyu Ribeye steak for 2 ($96) well rested before being sliced, the innards were a shade of shy pink with a liberal coating of spices, salt and pepper on it’s browned sides. The creeping streaks of fats dances across the tongue with a teasing melt-in-your-mouth texture and the béarnaise sauce perfumed with tarragon and peppercorn was the perfect accompaniment to soft and subtle flavors of the wagyu.
Service however was a bit shoddy as our side plates took more than 15 minutes to reach the table. Apart from that fiasco, dining in the Black Swan, surrounded by the grand statements of the 1930s decor and the fashionably dressed crowds certainly makes for a delicious experience.
The Black Swan
19 Cecil Street, The Quadrant
Singapore 049704
Tel: +65 81813305
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
