Burnt Ends: Can I have a little bit of smoke with everything?
Labels:
australia,
chinatown singapore,
contemporary,
dinner,
hidden finds,
overrated,
restaurants,
special occasion
·
To say that this was a long awaited experience is certainly an understatement. After a futile visit the first time around during the hectic lunch hour (before reservations were accepted); we were glad to find out that Burnt Ends had started to accept lunch reservations. We jumped the gun quickly and made the call just in time for our monthly celebrations.
Entering the domains of the restaurant, you are greeted by a bustle of action, deliberate movements all around the tight space of the open kitchen that spans the length of the establishment. A circus act of agile chefs dancing around the heightened flames of the four-ton, double-cavity wood burning brick kiln. The elephant in the room. One who's ominous presence dictates the flavors of the entire menu.
The restaurant's color palette is kept light and natural. Shades of greys and cream are complemented by occasional pops of colors from the bespoke varnished burnt rain-tree wood counter. Loh Lik Peng evidently blowing a breathe of magic into the place, stylising it with a touch of industrial-chic.
We kick off the much anticipated meal with Smoked Quail Eggs ($6) , bouncy balls reminiscent of tea-smoked eggs with a thick veil of smokiness. Flecked with large crystals of sea salt with an irresistible burst of fatty sunshine yolks within. These were an absolute showstopper of a starter.
The Smoked beef and horseradish ($18) was a refined dish comprising of beef tartare once again imprinted with the slightess hint of smoke topped with a magical shower of fresh horseradish done at the pass by Chef David Pynt himself .
The next dish takes the seasonal humble leek and turns it into something novel and delicious with the inclusion of some other unsuspecting ingredients. Leeks, hazelnut and browned butter ($16), turned out to be my favourite dish of the evening. Unassuming in terms of looks, the smoked leeks peeled out from its charred outer leaves were elevated by the generous dose of buerre noisette, parsley, capers and toasted hazelnuts.
One of Mr. Pynt's favourite dishes on the menu is the Kingfish, apple and seaweed ($21); a slab of kingfish collar with sweet flesh perfumed with umami flavors of its soy and mirin marinade under its carbon treated exterior. Not too flattering to look at to be honest but it does speak volumes for the type of cuisine Burnt Ends is proud to produce.
To top our experience off, we dived in straight for the kill. The Burnt Ends Sanger ($20); pulled pork shoulder, cole slaw, chipotle aioli, brioche bun. What more can I say? The fork tender pork, subjected to a gruelling 10-hour of cooking ritual before being smothered in an angry sluice of tangy chipotle aioli in a airy sesame seed bun. The mixture of textures, freshness of the coleslaw and punchy flavors created a sweet dance of sensations on the palate. It was at most good, but didn't provide the 'smack-down' I was hoping for with its terribly good looks.
Burnt Ends have received unprecedented media attention since its opening and I'm sure its novel concept has a part to play, especially amongst a constant gang-bang of restaurants with a contemporary fusion themed menu. With dishes highlighting David Pynt's Australian 'laid-back' nature, each of them simple but given a little snap, crackle and pop; most of them end up being more satisfying than its meek description on the menu. A place for special occasions and special occasions ONLY. (Unless you've got loads of moolahs to spare; then in that case, knock yourselves out!)
Burnt Ends
20 Teck Lim Road
+65-62243933
Website: www.burntends.com.sg
Tonkichi: my steadfast love
When I crave a good tonkatsu (once in a bluemoon), I only turn to one place.
My rock, my steadfast love, that manages to fill the entirety of all my cravings, nooks and crannies inclusive; that is Tonkichi. And if that isn't specific enough, I implode you please patronise the Takashimaya brunch for the most outstanding meal.
Deliciously golden brown, rich and salaciously juicy, the fried rosu katsu is the perfect thickness with the panko crumb crust adhering with a gentle magnetic touch to the flesh. With free flow of cabbage and rice thrown into the mix, one can fill up on the slight excessive tangle of greens with the addictive Japanese wafu-style salad dressing which helps to keep everything in check and cuts through the fat.
Question: Where would you turn to for the best tonkatsu?
Tonkichi (Takashimaya)
391 Orchard Road #04-24
Takashimaya Shopping Centre
Tower A, Ngee Ann City
Singapore 238872
Spathe Public House: #Savour2014 throwbacks
Labels:
american,
burgers,
dinner,
european,
mohammed sultan,
river valley,
special occasion,
waffles
·
#savour2014 was pretty much the most frequently used hashtag in the month of March. A relentless stream of posts on my instagram feed that I treated like a monkey on my back. Mainly because of the fact that I couldn't be there. A gourmet food festival featuring the likes of Michelin starred chefs and other illustrious restaurants in Singapore all convening in one single convivial location. I was sore.
Hence, when I chanced upon Savour recap of festival favourites, I jumped aboard eagerly. For 2 weeks, a specially created SAVOUR inspired menu had been crafted at a few bespoke establishments around the island for those meaning to "keep the savour buzz going". I was one of the fortunate few who was able to squeeze it into her visiting schedule.
SPATHE PUBLIC HOUSE was my choice, drawn to its innovative 5 course menu and copious amounts of good reviews to its savour offerings.
At first glance, my breathe was stolen by the sight of a fleet of low sofas and mismatched chairs. The brick walls jazzed up by a fresh coat of paint in bold colors and brave artistic prints. Self professed to be serving "European" fare, the menu featured a few playful injections of local influences that steered it towards the "fusion" side of cuisine, a potential dangerous casting as it is rare for a restaurant to come swirling out of the chaos; when most of the time, this choice of direction coughs up half-formed and unconvincing places.
Our first two courses came out swiftly, Charcoal Smoke Tomato Soup with crispy St Maure goat cheese, extra virgin olive oil & Sous Vide Spanish Octopus Salad with baby spinach, orange, garlic soil, honey, wholegrain mustard vinaigrette. With the former dish, its all about the details in the fabric; the slight char on the tomatoes, the crispy bits of ooey gooey goats cheese. It was a fabulous tomato soup, one that spoke maturity in terms of balance and seasoning. The Octopus salad was stellar as well, the sweet tart tension of the honey wholegrain mustard vinaigrette pulling the dish together; the orange segments introducing fresher and brighter flavor; the octopus, however possessed a rather incomprehensible texture, almost like chicken but underscored with a sense of rich, sea-slicked spice. Intriguing.
The menu steers off-course towards a more whimsical approach with the next offering, Belgian Waffles & Fried Chicken with Mornay Sauce. A fluffy lattice of conjugal bliss of flour, milk, sugar and salt creates the hinterland of your food fantasy, the cracks and crevices forming pockets for the nappage of that sweet sweet cheese sauce to rest in. The crisp fried chicken perfumed with spices and paprika cumulating in a smack down when the triad convenes in one mouthful.
Sambal, triple cheese, bacon, crispy chicken Truffle Melt. You know I love my burgers but this unfortunately didn't quite float my boat with its inharmonious flight of flavors, the piquancy of the sambal failing to sing in unison with the overdose of truffle oil.
Desserts arrived in a true Aussie fashion (the long wait now understandable), a bold brick of Sticky Toffee Pudding with Hokey Pokey Ice Cream. Laced with a rim of butterscotch sauce, my preoccupation with digging into the dessert was not one shared by my partner. That's alright, more for me. More dates could have been employed in the pudding, the excess of sultanas thrown into the mix, quite a turn-off for me; the hokey pokey ice cream studded with crunchy bits of honeycomb toffee was a perfect match to the warm pudding. A beguiling slice of dessert that I greedily polished off.
Spathe is a perfect backdrop for creative fine dining menu with a languish chilled vibe. Coupled with earnest, civilized and unhurried service, it isn't difficult to see myself back here for another meal in the near future.
SPATHE PUBLIC HOUSE
8 Mohamed Sultan Road
#01-01
Singapore 238958
+65 67351035
Website: http://www.spathepublichouse.com
Portico: Don't mess with the New Kid on the Block
Labels:
american,
beer,
circle line,
coffee,
dinner,
family friendly,
hidden finds,
labrador park,
wines
·
Singapore has no shortage of new restaurants and every visit back is a tepid attempt at playing catch-up with the newest, trendiest openings. Portico makes a soft entry with its secluded, austere hideaway of a location along Alexandra Road, a stones' throw away from the bustling hub of the Gilman Barracks.
The brainchild of restaurateurs, Alicia Lin and Sean Lai (owners of Pasarbella's Cicely Kitchen and Le Patio respectively); it is evident that their creative individualism has evolved into a hybrid of sorts that brings 'home-dining' to a new level. The kitchen is run by Executive Chef Leandros Stagogiannis, his impossible tangle of a hair helmet teaming full of innovative menu items. With the Fat Duck and Saint Pierre under his belt of accolades, I expected no less than an exceptional meal.
The space glows with warm invitation to passer-bys, except there weren't any, given it's 'off the beaten road' location. Still, word of mouth works wonders as publicity here and the dining room is a riot on a weekday night.
The meal unfolds, or unravels on modest table tops. Chili Scented Blue Mussels and french fries ($14/$27). As much as the dish looked a pretty picture, we had an argument with several muted mussels conveniently stuffed at the bottom of the dish. The thin film of sauce could use a fresh insurgence of acidity as the spicy cream concoction lacked complexity. A trip back to the kitchen coaxed the remainder of the mussels into submission, their flesh rubbery from the excess heat treatment.
Far more prominent is the Roasted Bone Marrow, shallots, parsley, garlic and crispy bread ($20/$30); the aroma of the dish, part animal fats and part herbs going directly from your nostrils to your brain. We devour this quickly with the expertly charred slices of crisp bread crackers.
And if you're like me, a no-nonsense raging carnivore, order the Red Wine Braised Wagyu beef cheek and bourguignon sauce ($27). Here, details elevate the honest braised beef; and its not just another brown sticky braise: the crisp snap of nashi pear, the smoky sweetness of the pearl onions, all sitting on that velvety smooth pomme puree. The Wagyu beef cheek is rendered to a heart aching tenderness, and I can't get it out of my mind. Wrestling with my gluttony, I did the unthinkable and shared a bit of the love with my neighbors (something that I came to regret almost immediately)
Chef Leandros Stagogiannis being of English background with Greek descent reflects on his heritage in this dish of Pork Belly Kebab with paprika fries, crusty bread and tsatziki ($13/$24). Understated cooking at its best.
Like many new restaurants, Portico isn't strong across the board. Service can be rushed and not exactly polished; but despite the risks, Portico is fun and lively enough that I can imagine dropping in once a month or so for a braised beef cheek reunion, or perhaps give that lemon tart with onion ice cream a crack.
Portico
991B Alexandra Road
#01-10
Tel: 6276 7337
Website: https://www.facebook.com/portico.sg
Black Swan: Warm Welcome
Touching down after my flight back from Sydney, I was famished. The journey was a irritable few hours of cramped up spaces and furiously coughing neighbors; i earnestly needed to get my spirits lifted.
First on the agenda, Black Swan, to get that stomach filled.
Having been here before, I decided to explore the menu a little with the intention of uncovering some weak lines in the kitchen's repertoire. Cruel, I know.
We ordered the Half dozen escargots ($21) and it turned out to be an instance where luxury of the ingredients backfire on the simplistic charm of the original dish. Escargots with garlic butter and parsley is an old school delight that brings me back to my hay days spent feeling pish-posh over a hot plate of sizzling escargots at Jacks Place. This new rendition pushes the boundaries by incorporating not one but two more belly busting ingredients, bone marrow and Parmesan into the mix. The result, a massive overkill of fat overload that drowned out the skimpy little morsel of earthiness. Disappointing.
Our main redeemed the establishments streamlined perfection of American cuisine with it’s Stockyard Australian Wagyu Ribeye steak for 2 ($96) well rested before being sliced, the innards were a shade of shy pink with a liberal coating of spices, salt and pepper on it’s browned sides. The creeping streaks of fats dances across the tongue with a teasing melt-in-your-mouth texture and the béarnaise sauce perfumed with tarragon and peppercorn was the perfect accompaniment to soft and subtle flavors of the wagyu.
Service however was a bit shoddy as our side plates took more than 15 minutes to reach the table. Apart from that fiasco, dining in the Black Swan, surrounded by the grand statements of the 1930s decor and the fashionably dressed crowds certainly makes for a delicious experience.
The Black Swan
19 Cecil Street, The Quadrant
Singapore 049704
Tel: +65 81813305
The Pelican: More than just waterfront views.
Labels:
CBD,
hidden finds,
onefullerton,
restaurants,
seafood,
shenton way,
steak
·
The Pelican situated along the waterfront that is One Fullerton boosts some amazing views of the harbour and the ever-changing skyline of Singapore. Step into it's cool vicinity and be greeted by inner city cool vibes enhanced by its' fire engine red upholstery and chic booth seatings.
Our choice for the hen's night dinner, we were all set for a full fledged gluttony experience.
Choosing to skip the starters, the ravenous group dove straight into the complimentary Sourdough bread which by my standards was a pretty darn good loaf, crisp crust with chewy moist innards. The unlikely scattering of seaweed throughout the dough reinforcing the "under-the-sea" theme of the dining experience.
Our food quickly arrives at the table. The Pelican platter ($128) catching delightful stares all around, its' huge selection of raw oysters, Alaskan crab, clams, steamed whole lobster, prawns and mussels indulging most of our whims and fancies. As a main, this could feed 2, however if savoured as a starter dish, there's enough to go around for at least 5. Showcasing ingredients that don't appear to have been tampered with, the depth of flavors combined with the ethereally cold serving temperatures made for a luxurious experience; albeit the occasional flying crab and lobster head experiences.
For mains, we settled for the Skate Wing Chop ($36) and the Ribeye Cap Steak ($58). Skate, as I found out is the indigenous name for the Stingray which we locals have grown to love with it being smothered under a blanket of aromatically spiced sambal. In this case, it is served with a burnt lemon butter sauce and fresh herbs, a lighter take on the "classic", helping to accentuate the sweet flesh of the fish. I was sceptical at first, but grew to enjoy the firm, meaty texture of the stingray. Definitely a dish highly recommended. For a restaurant that explicitly focuses on seafood, I found the ribeye cap steak to be exemplary. Heavily marbled, this cut of meat had the flavor and juicy fat of a ribeye, with the tenderness of a tenderloin. The gorgeous plump slice of meat lying seductively on a bed of mashed baked potatoes that entailed another love story on its own. All in all, a fabulous meal for a tidy price and fantastic ambiance to boot. What's there not to like?
The Pelican
1 Fullerton Road, #01-01, One-Fullerton,
Singapore049213
Phone: +65 6438 0400
Website: http://thepelican.com.sg/
Osia: Belly full of Surprises
Labels:
contemporary,
dinner,
modern,
resort worlds sentosa,
western food
·
It had never crossed my mind to visit Osia Restaurant ever. Situated just a stone's throw away from Joel Robuchon at Resorts World Sentosa, saving up the funds seems like an obvious choice. Helmed by Chef Douglas Tay, a seemingly young act in the scene given his sub-30 age; it may be a tough act on anyone's part to entrust a gourmet feast to such a young gun; but trust me, if you do, you're in for a treat.
For starters, we were treated to the restaurant's signature Stone Hearth Flatbreads served with Spiced Garbanzo paste that had been so cleverly contained in a toothpaste thing a ma jig. Points for novelty factor right there. The bread resembled a naan in its chewy composition and slightly stodgy center, not a winner amongst those who love a bit more aeration in their carbs.
The next course won me over with its stunning presentation. A conjugal bliss of Jamón Ibérico De Bellota, Air Dried Wagyu Beef Brisket, Burratina Artigiana served with vine tomatoes, rucola leaves and brioche. Up to your own liberty, mix and match the various fresh ingredients to create punchy flavors that perform a sweet dance on your palate. The Burrata cheese drizzled with balsamic vinegar was deliciously rich and creamy; the salty iberico ham, a perfect foil for the cheese. A slight tangle of peppery rucola leaves helping to keep everything in check and cutting through the fat.
Lychee Martini Oyster - served complimentary from the Chef; I assumed this was to be a palate cleanser of sorts. The fruitiness and bubbly nature of the cool cocktail livening up the plump oyster. I could do with another half dozen of these.
The Mushroom Soup can't be faulted as well. It's flavors underscored by a sense of rich, woody, earthy spice.
Then it took me to the Pièce de résistance of the night. Polenta crusted foie gras with beetroot, rhubarb and riberry spiced compote. I'm lost for words. What worked was the mealy crust on the foie gras that added texture whilst the perky bright compote of ruby red substances imparting a dash of acidity and mild sweetness to the fat laden dish. This is a MUST-HAVE.
Moving on to main course, my friends has the Razor Clam, Atlantic Halibut, Hokkaido Scallop ($70). An intricate dish providing the diner an assortment of expertly executed seafood dishes. Complimented by several other flavors including black garlic paste, green onion puree, potato foam, iberican Chorizo and artichoke barigoule.
My Sea Perch with sesame ratte potato, soy milk curd and shiromiso glaze was another stellar dish which looked deceptively simple on the large platters but delivered hugely on flavor and execution. Slightly firm in texture, the fish itself had a beautiful fat content that melded well with the salty soy milk curd cubes perched on top. The sesame ratte potatoes were smashing, buttery with tattered edges that allowed the sesame spices to adhere with much endearment to its side. The pea tendrils that accompanied the dish, beautifully seasoned and a joy to eat even on its own.
Last but not least, my friend dived gregariously into his Bryon Bay Berkshire Pork Chop. This was the full works, a 300g bone in pork chop that had arrived freshly off the grill. Not for the faint hearted, the protein had a superior marbling stature and was deliciously juicy. Definitely for those with heartier appetites and more carnivorous preferences.
While the kitchen smokes and smolders, the dining room is a perfect scene of tranquillity, littered with lovebirds and rowdy parties. Yet the kitchen works its magic in churning out stellar dishes with an elegant, meticulous touch. Adventurous taste buds with food-geek tendencies should indeed give Osia a shot.
Osia
Resorts World Sentosa
#02-140
26 Sentosa Gateway
Singapore 098139
Tel: +65 6577 6560
Website: http://www.osiarestaurant.com/home/
The Audacious Cakery: Weird is the word.
Labels:
cafe,
cakes,
chinatown singapore,
cupcakes,
desserts,
everton park,
hidden finds,
macarons,
outram
·
Audacious, it is to present a table full of sweets and desserts to four extremely judgemental palates.
Did Audacious Cakery eventually take the cake?
Unfortunately, not for me.
Located in the newly spruced up Everton Park region, you're cocooned within its rather warm, softly lit interiors. The cafes' simple layout and charming decor fitting in with the "hidden-gem" theme of the neighbourhood: think clear glass panelled windows bathing the room in natural light. The menu, an impressive spread of sweets ranging from signature cupcakes, petite entremets to the more finicky macarons.
With the macarons ($2.50-$2.80), a variety of herbs and flavors take centerstage. Sadly, these did not float my boat given their less than crisp shells and stingy fillings. Kudos to the Lemongrass and coconut combination though, I just wish there there was a slightly better balance of sweetness and muted acidity.
Moving on to the tarts; the Lemon Meringue ($5.80) and Chocolate Souffle Tart ($6.80); (for some strange reason, you can request for it to warmed up). Don't be fooled by its fuss free appearance, the former rebelliously flaunts the puckery nature of the lemon; creamy, buttery and gorgeously rich; this lemon tart was set to soar only to be knocked down by the mediocrity of the manufactured pate sucre base that lacked shortness and frankly, looked a little anaemic. With the chocolate tart, this was definitely the first time I encountered a choice of a souffle filling by a patissier and I was keen to try it out. Weird. The innards were ultra gooey, almost akin to a stringy soft cheese after being heated. Upon closer investigation, it was brought to our attention that the tart had been heated up before serving (apparently its been very popular eaten this way). I say NEH to the notion of direct heat since the egg white proteins would probably curdle and the crispy cookie garnish transforming into a chewy mess. Have it cold.
Then marched out the Cupcakes ($3.50). My favourite of the lot being the Black Sesame. Very potent in flavor, the cakes were in general very moist with a most huat kueh like texture. The fat-content in the Italian meringue buttercream could be toned down a notch as it left an oil slick on the lips after being noshed down.
Bottom plate (L-R): Forest Noir ($9.80), Chocolate Obsession ($8.80)
At this point, I'm thinking. I can't do desserts anymore. Yet, the allure of the mini cakes with their shiny glaze and petite garnishing tempts. Word of advice, stick with the cafes' chocolate offerings. The chocolate obsession being the star of the show with its slightly acidic dark chocolate mousse paired with a rich chocolate sponge. The Forest Noir, a spin-off the classic black forest cake may appeal to those who like a little alcohol in their desserts but certainly knocked my socks off with the extreme potent nature of the kirsch soaked cherries so deftly hidden within it's walls.
from L-R: Zacharie ($7.80), Faith, Strawberry Shortcake ($6.80)
Zacharie is a light cheesecake with a mango passionfruit jelly insert; despite it's pledge, I could hardly detect ginger in the biscuit base. For those who love the texture of tofu cheesecake, this is right up your alley. The Strawberry shortcake underwhelms with it's lack of general sweetness and depth of flavor.
Indeed, the food here casts good impressions with their attention to detail; regrettably, it doesn't deliver on a taste point of view. In this respect, there are loads of hits and misses with the desserts and it all depends on whether your choice matches up to your floating expectations. Good luck.
Audacious Cakery
Blk 2 Everton Park #01-161
Singapore 081002
Website: theaudaciouscakery.com/
Facebook: facebook.com/AudaciousCakery
Jimmy Monkey: When I Miss Home
Labels:
all-day-breakfast,
australia,
beer,
bistro,
brunch,
buona vista,
cafe,
coffee,
hidden finds,
onenorth
·
On the island state of Singapore, food trends are like waves breaking onto our shores, leaving us awash with new choices. We used to lament that finding a good cup of coffee was impossible; now the predicament is which cafe should we head to in order to avoid the crowds. And when I say crowds, that's an understatement.
The 'Third Wave Coffee' has relinquished itself in a influx of cafes dotting the island. Common Man Coffee Roasters, Anthesis, The Bravery, Ronin, The Provision Shop, (working title) and the Le Mama Shoppe are just some of the new kids on the block that have joined in the game. While these fresh picks amuse the hippy youngsters always on the lookout for new spots to instagram from. I always turn to the usual suspects for my quick cuppa. Presenting to you my rock, Jimmy Monkey at One-North Residences.
There's nothing quite fancy about this space. High ceilings featuring some odd features (the still in-tact toilet bowl originally on the second floor)), warehouse aesthetic referncing with minimalist features. Here, it's a safe space, truly evocative of my dwellings in most Sydney cafes where you could slave away on your lappie half the day or craddle a good read without being disturbed.
For something a little lighter on the palate and no less satisfying, order The Hulk - smashed avocado, chunks of feta and homemade dukka on sourdough. The interesting mix of middle eastern flavors and squeeze of fresh lemon juice lifts the dish with a citrusy and rustic nutty vibrancy. Definitely the best dish on the brunch table.
Heartier appetites can go for the Spaghetti with Chorizo and baby spinach. Al-dente with the perfect amount of seasoning makes this simple dish a crowd pleaser.
My mother very quickly worked through her Saint Joseph's Tartine, pausing occasionally to murmur through gorged mouthfuls; mostly swooning. The sauteed mix mushrooms is kryptonite, served on TBP multigrain sourdough and sided by streaky bacon.
I was disappointed by my Breakfast Sandwich though. I'm guessing it's another case of food envy at work but still I cannot dismiss the underwhelming Kay's relish (with a name engraved next to it, you would expect it to be a real showstopper); I could have used a little more of it and perhaps a little less acidity and more robustness.
That mini detail aside, the coffee was perfect. Indulging me in all my caffeine nerdiness.
Jimmy Monkey
9 One-North Gateway
#01-51 One-North Residences
Singapore 138643
tel: +65 6777 8470
facebook: facebook.com/jimmymonkeycafe
It just has to be. In time. In place. In spirit.
It just has to be."
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