Melbourne Feasts VI: MoVida Aqui
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Dining at MoVida Aqui can be easily categorized as a revolutionary moment, a bit like my birthday dinner at Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire which swung opened my perceptive doors to molecular gastronomy. Though not exuding the utlra chic airs as Reflets, Movida attracts it's own cult of followers, lovers and advocates of premium ingredients cooked with a bit of Spanish flair.
Located in the back alleys of Little Bourke, moments of anticipation build up gradually as you turn the corner only to see a sprawling glass complex one floor up. Follow the emerging chatter of diners up the stairs to see the non-descript deep-set interiors of the restaurant. I was impressed by the trail up and its accompanying views, what about it's food?
Earlier, my two accomplices; Mum and Kor had earnestly gone with the choice of ordering one of every single tapas off the menu. A boon and bane obviously as photographing only one of each can be quite a pathetic sight at times. Still, we pressed on, undeterred by the task of dividing each mini-course into three equal parts. First up, the anchoa; Hand-filleted Cantabrian Artisan anchovy on crouton with smoked tomato sorbet. I hummed a tune of silent deductions, anchovies not exactly making my list of 'most favourite things to eat'. Amazingly, this turned out to be one of the best dishes the whole night, so I shall rattle off blatantly about it. The tiny silver of anchovy sat like a twisted model sprawled over the sofa of thin crisp wafer; smoky to the touch combined with the smooth tomato sorbet providing that injection of sour and surprise.
Bomba is Catalan potato bomb filled with chorizo; disappointing I must say as it was nothing more than a potato croquette stuffed with a non-detectable amount of chorizo.
Another miss is the Sardina - Imported Spanish artisan Cuca sardine with tomato on toast. I guess this fails to my subjective tastes, sardines being one of the few things I detest strongly. Still looking like a work of art on the rustic round wooden board, I clicked enthusiastically.
The AJ O Blanco (a chilled almond and garlic soup with grape granita and salt cod brandaise) was the most unpopular of the lot, the odd pairing of a cold almond soup reminiscent of the chinese almond dessert spotted with peculiar lingering of garlic infusion. I was left feeling completely mystified and slightly disappointed at the same time at the lack lustre fusion.
The Pincho de tortilla fared slightly better, a Spanish egg pancake filled with potatoes and onions. I adored the gentle mix of spices complimented by the tenderness of sauteed potatoes within the tortilla. Though not so well recieved by my fellow dining companions. But that meant more for me, no complaints!
Last on the list of Tapas Clasicas is the Bocadillo de calamares, a calamari sandwich with Basque quindilla and mayonnaise. A slightly intriguing combination on paper albeit for the tainting of the last ingredient, a universal favourite, mayonnaise. Couldn't they replace it with a aioli of sorts? Then again, who was I to mumble a word of resent after chomping down on my portion of the warm sandwich only to turn around and beg for more? fabulous.
Now comes the part where I sing odes of praise to the following dish, and maybe the subsequent main following. So mind you, should you intend to dine at this establishment. Take a generous bite out of their mains over the tapas; just my generous piece of advice... We had the Calamres con Paloma, baby calamari stuffed with roast pigeon ragu served with fino and sorrel sauce. As our knives sank into the head of the stuffed baby squid, we begin to realise that this was no normal squid. Meeting no resistance to our knives, the squid yielded with exclusive savoury delight to our tongues. The sweetness of the roasted pigeon within its helms providing a mysterious touch to the freshness of the calamari. There again I was in trouble, risk being seen like a fool wiping up the remains of the delicious sauce or get in trouble with the financial controller of the meal by ordering another serving? I did the former. *beams*
Last of the lot was the beef cheek on cauliflower puree which again lead to another mind blowing discovery. The flesh splitting at the gentle touch of a fork. We tore, savoured, grinned and went back to the plate for more. My love for the cauliflower puree multiplying ten fold with every sweet mouthful. Why haven't I meet you before?
And how can we end off a meal without desserts? Seemingly a grand affair with our dessert tasting platter. Nothing beats having everything good from a restaurant's dessert section on a rustic wooden plaque beckoning for your attention. All were good except for the appearance of tainted burnt chocolate at the bottom of the jar meant for the quick skinny dipping of the churros. Credits to the olive oil icecream sitting on a throne of chocolate cake. I could have used an extra bowlful of this shoddy slightly chewy frozen delight.
Level 1, 500 Bourke St, Melbourne, Victoria
(enter via Little Bourke St)
Tel: +61 (03) 9663 3038
Opening hours:
Monday to Friday 12pm until late (lunch and dinner)
Saturday 5pm until late (dinner only
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